I played in the recent 2013 Bullshooter Regional that was held in Houston a couple of weeks ago.

The AA Pro Singles event was Cricket and it was played on the small (13") board. That was the only division and event that played on the 13" board.

Not sure how I would feel about that, obviously it's Arachnid's attempt to combat Dartslive moving into the US. Hear I thought the 13" on the G3 was for European countries that play soft tip on 13" boards. At least in Cricket it would not change strategy, It would be big trouble for a soft tip player to play 01 games on that board. Fat Bull master-out right out the window. I would have to re-learn how to count down to double 16 or Tops for an outshot.

The trebles on the 13" side are ridiculously small. 2 holes wide!!!!

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Compared to a regular sized Arachnid treble

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Hey clean them boards, I no longer care how good black and red tips match my fights because of this. I bought some bright yellow and Mint Lippoints for this reason, yea they make my darts look like toys - but I don't have touble finding the remains if they break off into the board.

As for trip section on the G3, I see a lot of 3 mark passes for me.

I really have to get one of those point plunger things.

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The vendor should have one and maintain his boards, but he doesn't.

Any ideas of what i could use to push the points through?

I think that's pretty cool they did that for the AA pro - sure changes the game

Do you guys check the board before you play on them?

Surely if you hit where there is a broken point stuck in your dart wont register?

getagrip wrote:

Do you guys check the board before you play on them?

Surely if you hit where there is a broken point stuck in your dart wont register?

It will register a score. Might not stick in the board though.

I'm wondering if I put a handle on a steel tip dart or just wrap duct tape around it I could use that to push the broken points in?

Should work.

No, NO, NO, NO ! for the love of .... NO JD lol


Behind the front face of the board, is a thin pressure sheet with flexble flat wires imbedded - the dart hits this and it registers the contact. You push through and tear it with your steel tip point and its over for the board - best case you loose a small segment, worst case you short the wole mat. The tool, the part that contacts the tip is a hard plastic (maybe teflon) but certainly no metal.

* side note, take apart a home board (yea it voids the warranty) so do it on an older board.

I tried to sound deaden a Arachnid 6000 by putting thin mouse pad material between the mat and the plastic back. (yea, I got the idea when they 1st anounced the Dartslive 100s). About $20 later for the longers screws and the mouse pads - It made little or no difference - and the mat started mis-scoring to boot.


* you can have a fun night turning the mat ( make the 20 a 3) just to jack with your friends - again do this on an old board - some of the screw holes don't match up so you risk tearing the mat

^^ No, that's not accurate at all. I worked for a vending company from 2001-2005 and used to repair these boards.

The segments are little boxes approx 3/4 inch deep. There is a cover on the back of each segment that opens up so you can empty the tips out. Sticking metal inside of the segment will have NO effect at all on the board.

These boxes (segments) rest on a rubber mat. Underneath the rubber mat is where all the electronics and touch pads are.

I have some parts around here somewhere. I'll post pics up later so you can see how the segments work.

I never looked behind the A2 I own , will check tonight. Like I said I had opened up a couple of the home models and that what they have. sry if this caused confusion, got me wondering now.

hit it with an hammer!

crash336 wrote:

I never looked behind the A2 I own , will check tonight. Like I said I had opened up a couple of the home models and that what they have. sry if this caused confusion, got me wondering now.

Check this out. I posted some pics of the actual bar unit parts. Even the new Arachnid ones are made the same way. I had never taken apart a home model so it's good to know that they are different. Something I didn't know before now.

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Before I bought my tip remover, I used a small phillips head screw driver and gently pushed the tips in with that.